Aunt Karyn introduced us to some exciting Lowcountry fun and cooking. She booked us a shrimp boat, which we took out and sat in the warming sun while the captain dragged a net about the ocean floor. We only caught about a pound of shrimp, which we enjoyed later, but were shocked when the net trapped a 3-foot shark. It unfortunately ripped a hole in the captain’s net. Lucky for the shark, we tossed it back into the sea. There is a particular category of Southern cuisine called “Lowcountry Cuisine”, which is fittingly named for its association with the South Carolina Lowcountry as well as the Georgia coast. Certainly Southern cooking at its finest, it focuses on readily available coastal seafood and local traditions, reminding me very much of the Cajun and Creole cuisines I enjoyed in New Orleans, yet exuding a character entirely its own. Read about my trip to New Orleans here. When the opportunity arose to visit Charleston, South Carolina, for a weekend, I jumped at the chance and filled my schedule with as much great Lowcountry cooking as I could manage. Let me tell you where I visited, what we ate, and where you may want to visit as well for a tour of Lowcountry cuisine. But first… The most critical description separates the regional identity from the South Carolina inland, focusing on the rich abundance of seafood more readily available, from shrimp and crab to fish, oysters and more. Being a visitor there, I am not one to argue with specifics, but I can tell you the food is fabulous, outstanding, and wholeheartedly satisfying in ways that will make the foodie in you quiver with delight. There are so many famous traditional dishes to try in the Lowcountry. Some of the most well-known include She Crab Soup, Shrimp and Grits, Cornbread, Buttermilk Biscuits, Pimento Cheese, Fried Green Tomatoes, Fried Chicken, Lowcountry Boil, and Whole Hog BBQ. It would be difficult to try them all in a single weekend if you’re by yourself, but below is a recount of my experience, where we dined (there were 4 of us, which helped to try everything), what we enjoyed, and what I recommend to try. Onward!
Lowcountry Dining in Charleston, South Carolina
Here is a list of restaurants we visited for Lowcountry cooking, and we loved them all. The four of us dined there on Friday evening and were led through a narrow, brick lined alleyway to the host stand. We were seated in a charming, spacious courtyard in the gently warm air with candle lights. Cheddar biscuits with butter were brought out immediately and we nibbled on them, fighting the urge to devour them all, trying to save place for the coming feast. For starters, we ordered the famous She Crab Soup, Fried Green Tomatoes, BBQ Shrimp and Grits, and the Carolina Crab Cakes. We split several main dishes, including Jambalaya and Lowcountry Seafood Gumbo, both generously portioned. The jambalaya included shrimp and crawfish, along with tasso ham and Charleston red rice and was very flavorful and filling. The gumbo was a tour of Lowcountry seafood with shrimp, oysters and crab along with andouille, okra, and more. Both incredibly satisfying, and filling! And don’t forget the side of greens! I do love my greens. Head on over to 82 Queen. You won’t leave hungry! Our crew enjoyed brunch on Saturday morning and shared a number of menu items, including tomato pie, she crab soup (can’t get enough!), fried chicken biscuits, and shrimp and grits. The shrimp and grits were saucy and sweet/spicy, just the right thing for us, and the fried chicken was the perfect way to enjoy a brunch, so nice and crispy. Everything was outstanding. Our waiter, Brandon, was super accommodating, and the French pressed coffee hit the spot! I definitely recommend enjoying a brunch at Virginia’s on King. You’ll love it. Saturday night dinner was at Eli’s Table, and we had such a cool experience. It started off normal enough, with some wine and our typical sharing of several different menu items. We ordered Pimento Cheese Grits to share (amazing!), along with Fried Green Tomatoes, Duck and Waffles, Seafood Ragu Ravioli, and Red Snapper Risotto. The Seafood Ragu was hearty and filling, and the Red Snapper Risotto nice and rich. I always love red snapper, one of my favorite fish. I got to talking with the manager about my food blog, Chili Pepper Madness, and he said the he and the chef like to make their own hot sauce in the kitchen. Yes! I asked for a sample and he happily brought out a homemade hot sauce made from roasted red bell peppers, ghost pepper, cayenne and spicy chili flakes. It had some nice heat, but wasn’t overpowering, with a sweet and spicy flavor that I love with a good hot sauce. Well done, Eli’s Table! It’s nice to meet some fellow chilihead foodies. Loved it. We decided to stop in for some late night cocktails at the Victor Social Club, which we’d heard had a fabulous atmosphere and great cocktails, and we were not disappointed. The great thing is we also experienced some intensely flavorful bites as well. The club is a shared space between 2 restaurants – Michael’s on the Alley (Steakhouse) and Vincent Chicco’s Ristorante (Italian-American) – so you can visit while dining at either restaurant or just visit on your own. The chips were crunchy and flavorful, but both the Wood Smoked Oysters and Octopus were the highlight. Definitely recommended.
The Darling Oyster Bar
http://thedarling.com/ We enjoyed a spectacular brunch at The Darling Oyster Bar on late Sunday morning and loved the restaurant instantly. One peek inside is enough to get you excited. What a cool style. Their selection included Gulf Oysters from Louisiana, Blue Points from Delaware Bay in New Jersey, Beausoleil Oysters from Canada, a couple local options in Lowcountry Cups from Ace Basin and Single Lady’s from Seabrook, as well as Canadian Salute Oysters. Such a perfect way to start off your day, with such a fabulous brunch! We also shared amongst our group the Snapper Ceviche, Tuna Tartar, Shrimp Creole, Shrimp and Grits, the Lobster and King Crab Roll as well as a side of Geechie Boy Grits with Sweet Pepper Relish.
Ms. Rose’s Fine Food & Cocktails
We enjoyed a late brunch at Ms. Rose’s at the tail end of our trip, on our way out of town the following Sunday. Talk about character! The food, of course, was stellar, as we’ve come to expect from all of our Lowcountry hosts. We ordered up Fried Green Tomatoes, Shrimp and Grits, the Lowcountry Benedict and Rose’s Fried Chicken with Tabasco Honey. The Fried Green Tomatoes were served with pimiento cheese and disappeared almost instantly from the table. Whoa! Dip a bit of that crunchy fried chicken in that sweet and tangy Tabasco Honey and dang! What a flavorful bit. It is definitely one you must try if you visit. So highly recommended, and such a fun atmosphere inside. Very inviting, quite accommodating.
Fun in the Lowcountry
One of the best parts of this trip was our visit in the middle of our Charleston trip to Edisto Island, South Carolina. We were lucky enough to be invited by a great friend of mine to stay with his Aunt Karyn. Aunt Karyn lives in the Lowcountry, and she happens to be a phenomenal cook. We enjoyed Aunt Karyn’s crudo, some spiced up red snapper tacos, Beaufort Stew, boiled peanuts and so much more. A total trip highlight was a visit to the Geechie Boy Mill on Edisto Island where I purchased homemade grits made from heirloom corn, among other things. I’m so hooked on top quality grits and can’t wait to get cooking with my new stash. I’ll finish things up with a quick talk about the city of Charleston itself. As a first time visitor, I have to say – I can’t wait to go back. Charleston is rich with a long history, and the people were as friendly and welcoming as could be. You can walk all over the place and find yourself any number of nice bars or restaurants, and shopping galore.
A Bit about Charleston, South Carolina
Try yourself a tour in one of the carriage rides and take a look at the charming downtown filled with antebellum mansions, historic landmarks and gorgeous parks. And especially try for yourself some of the local Lowcountry cooking. If you’re a spicy food lover like me, you’ll definitely enjoy it. It isn’t “hot” spicy, just perfectly seasoned and flavorful “spicy”.
